FIRE PREVENTION AND PROTECTION FOR THE HOUSE OWNER |
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| Chapter Five: Fire Alarms | |||||||
| General | |||||||
| Statistics compiled by the NFPA indicate that 40% of accidental fire victims are asleep at the time of the fire and are overcome by smoke and fumes before they can awaken. It is also a fact that, in British Columbia in 1985, no fire alarms were installed in buildings where 70% of residential fires were reported. These same fires were responsible for 70% of the total residential injuries and 81% of the total residential deaths in that year. In a full-scale bedroom fire test sponsored by the National Science Foundation, flashover (i.e. the complete involvement of a room and all its combustibles in flame) occurred just seven minutes after the start of the fire. Actually, after only five minutes, chances for survival would have been very small because of the toxic fumes. By installing a system of smoke and heat detectors, members of the household will be alerted (particularly when they are asleep) to a developing fire situation. Recent developments in fire and smoke alarms have resulted in these alarms becoming available at very modest cost. If every home were equipped with smoke detectors, there would be a marked reduction in residential loss of life due to fire. | |||||||
| Fire Department Policy | It is important to note that fire officials are continually citing smoke detectors as saving lives in residential fires. At the time of writing, fire alarms are only mandatory in residential occupancies if the number of permanent occupants exceeds 10 persons (per National Building Code). There has been much discussion over the proposed addition of a clause in the National Fire Code that deals with the mandatory installation of smoke alarms in all existing dwelling units. However, although a desirable objective, it was felt that there were too many administrative enforcement problems associated with undertaking such a policy - so the clause was not adopted. After this decision, fire officials were "hopeful that increased public education will result in more people installing smoke alarms on a voluntary basis". | ||||||
| Smoke Alarms | |||||||
| Smoke causes the majority of fire-related deaths. It contains deadly killer gases, such as carbon monoxide, and, when smoke is produced, life-sustaining oxygen is consumed. Most fire victims die from these factors, frequently before they awaken. A smoke detector, when properly located and maintained, can give early warning of fire and provide you and your family with precious extra seconds to escape a developing fire situation and notify the Fire Department. Smoke alarms work by sensing the rising smoke from a fire and sounding an alarm. They can detect smoke far from the origin of the fire and are most valuable at night, alerting family members to the presence of fire when they are asleep. It is important to remember that, in most cases, the sound of a smoke detector is the only means of alerting a sleeping person to the existence of fire, and detectors can save lives only if people hear them. The Hazardous Products Act states that household smoke detectors used as part of a fire alarm system, or individually, must meet the applicable requirements of the ULC if they are to be advertised, sold or imported into Canada. Therefore, all smoke detectors used in Canada must bear the ULC certification mark. | |||||||
| Method of Detection | There are currently two types of detection
methods available - the photoelectric method and the ionization chamber method. Whichever
type you use, it is important that you read the instruction manual that comes with the
detector carefully before installing it. Ionization Smoke Detectors: By using a tiny, harmless, quantity of radio-active material, the ionization smoke detector can sense both visible and invisible products of combustion created by fires. Air molecules in the sensing chamber are ionized to create a small electric current flow between two charged plates. When combustion particles accumulate in the chamber they cause the current flow to drop below a critical level and the alarm is activated. Humidity and temperature changes may also cause a reduction in current flow, resulting in a possible false alarm. In order to combat this problem, most detectors have dual ionization chambers (a sensing chamber and a reference chamber), which help compensate for normal atmospheric changes in the home. Ionization detectors respond quickly to smoke from clean-burning fires of paper and wood. However, they tend to sound false alarms when exposed to normal household fumes and kitchen smoke. Photoelectric Smoke Detectors: This type of alarm contains a light source and a special photosensitive cell in a darkened chamber. It will employ one of two possible methods of detection. The "light obscuration" detector directs the beam from the light-source onto the cell. If smoke particles enter the chamber and partially block the beam, the reduction in light reaching the cell causes the circuitry to initiate an alarm. The "light scattering" detector is far more common and directs its light beam within the smoke chamber, but not onto the cell. If smoke enters the chamber, the smoke particles reflect light onto the cell and the alarm is sounded. As the photoelectric smoke detector is reliant on visible products of combustion to operate, it is better at sensing smoldering fires than flaming ones. Thermal versions that incorporate built-in fixed temperature heat detectors are also available. Photoelectric detectors are not as readily available, or as cheap, as most ionization types, but they respond quicker to the slow-burning smoldering fires that occur most frequently in homes, and are not as prone to false alarms. Combined Ionization/Photoelectric Smoke Detectors: Smoke alarms are available that combine both methods of detection. These provide the best overall protection, sensing fast, flaming fires as well as slow, smoldering ones. They usually contain one ionization chamber and one photoelectric chamber making them much more stable and far less prone to false alarms. However, they are generally more expensive. Some combined detectors may have two test buttons - one for checking the ionization sensor and one for checking the photoelectric sensor. |
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| Self-contained smoke alarms | The average smoke detector, available at the local hardware store, requires no adjustment, is battery-operated (takes one 9V battery), easily installed without any external wiring, has a loud siren, a built-in test circuit, and is listed by Underwriters’ Laboratories of Canada (ULC). They are available in ionization, photoelectric and combination models. Some detectors have a built-in lamp to help you find your way if the power should fail during a fire (these take an extra 9V battery). There are also portable detectors available that can be carried with you and mounted on the door of your hotel room, etc. All self-contained smoke detectors will let you know if the sensor battery starts to run low, usually with an occasional beep of the detector’s horn - when this happens the battery should be replaced as soon as possible (although the detector may still operate for several days after the beeping starts). A few have a "hush button" which allows instant silencing of false alarms. | ||||||
| AC powered smoke alarms | This type of detector is connected to the 117Vac house wiring. Smoke alarms operating from household current usually have a light to indicate that the detector is powered. The ac powered alarm is most often installed during construction of a new home, or during renovation. It should be both CSA certified and ULC listed. The ac alarms should be mounted as close to the centre of the ceiling as possible and wired to a junction box in a similar manner to a ceiling lamp. Wiring must comply with the requirements of the Canadian Electrical Code and your local codes. It is recommended that the detectors be wired together (two wires) on a separate circuit (one with no other lights or appliances connected to it). This circuit must be one that cannot be turned off by a switch or ground fault interrupter. Some ac-powered detectors have a back-up battery which will keep the unit operating in the event of a power failure - this is highly recommended. | ||||||
| Multiple operation | On some ac powered and self-contained detectors, a single wire or pair of wires is used to connect a number of similar detectors together, so that smoke sensed by one detector will cause an audible alarm from all detectors. To help identify the originating detector in multiple alarm systems, the power light on that detector may be turned off when the system is activated. This type is recommended where several detectors are to be installed in a house and there is a danger that some, when activated, will be too far away from the sleeping areas to awaken members of the household. An example is the smoke detector located in the basement. | ||||||
| Relay outputs | A few available ac powered and self-contained detectors provide relay contacts that open and/or close when the alarm is activated. This enables the unit to be wired to a central control panel that may be part of a burglar alarm system, or directly to a bell, horn, light, telephone dialler or digital communicator. The relay output may also be wired to a battery operated transmitter used with some burglar alarm systems. Often, the operation of the relay is delayed a few seconds to prevent false alarms and to prevent tests from causing system alarms. | ||||||
| Dual alarm comparator | A few ionization smoke detectors incorporate a timing mechanism that allows the device to be highly sensitive without sounding annoying nuisance alarms caused by smoke resulting from such things as burning toast or bacon. In a flaming fire situation, where there is little visible smoke, the timing mechanism will be bypassed and the alarm sounded immediately. If the unit senses a low level of smoke, the timing mechanism is triggered and the alarm will wait for a preset length of time (probably eight minutes) before operating. If the smoke clears within that time (as it would with normal cooking operations) the timer will be reset and the alarm will not sound. In a smoldering fire, the alarm will sound well before the time limit has expired. If, at any time during the timer countdown, the detector senses higher levels of smoke or other combustion products, it immediately bypasses the timer and sounds the alarm. | ||||||
| Alarm signal | ULC requires that smoke detectors approved by them provide an A-weighted sound pressure level of at least 85dB at a distance of 3.05m (10 ft) from the device. Types of furnishings, the distance, the number of floors, walls and doorways, whether doors are open or closed, and many other factors, will reduce the level of sound available at the ear of a person that the detector is required to inform. In addition, how soundly a person sleeps and the quality of their hearing will affect their ability to hear the signal and awaken. It is unfortunate that the optimum location of a smoke alarm for early detection of a fire is not the same as the optimum location to ensure that the alarm is loud enough to be heard and to awaken sleepers. In fact, conditions that are required to delay the passage of toxic fire gases (such as closed doors) will also reduce the level of sound and thus could delay, or prevent, a safe exit. This problem can be overcome in several ways. One method would be to make the alarm louder, but this may risk hearing damage for people close to the detector when it is activated. Another is to have a number of smoke detectors interconnected for multiple operation (as described in Section 5.3.5), with one detector in each bedroom acting as an alarm signal. A third method would be to place the smoke detector in the optimum location for detecting a fire (as described in Section 5.3.10), and extend the alarm signal to the optimum location for wakening a sleeper (as described in Section 5.3.12). | ||||||
| Alarm signals for the hearing impaired | The proper fire safety precautions can mean the difference between life and death in an emergency. But many of the precautions which hearing people consider adequate, such as installing fire alarm systems, are quite useless to people with a hearing loss, unless an effective signalling device is also installed. These devices range from those which turn on lights when an alarm sounds, to tactile alarms (which warn people by way of the sense of touch) or combination audible-visual alarms. Visible alarms may use continuous or flashing lights to alert hearing impaired people of emergency situations. The flashing light may be an incandescent bulb but, more commonly, will be a strobe light. The tactile alarms may be a fan, a pillow vibrator or a mattress bed vibrator. Any of these devices may be operated directly from the alarm system, or may be operated by sensing the sound from a smoke detector or alarm system. | ||||||
| Location of smoke detectors | The location of detectors is critical for true life safety protection. Detectors should be located on every level of your residence. In particular, between each sleeping area and potential sources of fire such as kitchen, garage (or carport), basement or utility room. A suitable location for a detector would be in a hallway connecting the bedrooms. They should also be located in every bedroom where a smoker sleeps, where the door is kept closed, or where an electrical appliance is operated. While conforming with the other requirements, try to position a smoke detector near the top of stairways, but not in an updraft. They should not be placed near fireplaces, in dusty or dirty environments, in insect infected areas, within 1.5m (5 ft) of a fluorescent light fixture, or within 4.6m (20 ft) of a furnace, hot water heater or gas space heater. Smoke detectors should not be installed where turbulent air from doors, windows, fans, forced air heaters, or air conditioning ducts may prevent combustion particles from entering the sensing chamber. In rooms with simple sloped, peaked or gabled ceilings, install smoke detectors on the ceiling 1 metre (3 feet) from the highest point of the ceiling. Smoke detectors can be used in most areas of the home - except kitchens (smoke from cooking may cause a nuisance alarm), bathrooms (excessive steam from a shower or bath can cause an unwanted alarm) and garages (products of combustion are present from running an automobile engine which can cause a false alarm). If in doubt, it should be remembered that an alarm that sometimes goes off when there is no danger is a lot better than having no alarm in an area where it may be needed. It may help to regard nuisance alarms as necessary, though unscheduled, tests of the detector. A false alarm should only occur when a member of the household is awake (otherwise it should not be considered a false alarm), and fanning the smoke away from the detector will usually silence it quickly. NEVER remove the battery to silence an alarm. | ||||||
| Mounting of smoke detectors | The detector should be mounted on the ceiling, as close to the centre of the room, or hallway, as possible. If it is not practical to mount a detector in the centre of the ceiling, it should be located on the ceiling as far away from any wall as possible - but definitely at a distance of more than 10cm (4 inches) from any wall. If placed within 10cm of a corner, dead air space will prevent smoke from reaching the detector. Wall mounting is not recommended but, if you have no other choice, the top edge of the detector must be located between 10 to 15cm (4 to 6 inches) down from the ceiling. | ||||||
| Location of alarms | Most smoke detectors have built-in audible alarm signals but, unless you have all detectors interconnected and a detector in each bedroom, there is no guarantee that every alarm will be loud enough to waken all sleepers in the event of a fire. An alarm must be placed in every room where a person sleeps and must be loud enough to waken the heaviest sleeper. There should be no wall, door, floor or other obstacle between the alarm and the sleeper to reduce the signal level. | ||||||
| Testing and maintenance | Smoke detectors may fail to alarm as required because their sensitivities have been altered over a period of time by dust, grease, corrosive fumes, moisture and other contaminates in the air. Further, aging is a factor contributing to malfunctions. Most manufacturers nowadays provide a test button on the housing of the detector to test the electronic circuitry within the unit, but this test button will not check the air passages to the sensing chambers. An environmentally-safe aerosol spray is available which simulates the full range of fire conditions by emitting smoke particles of all sizes. A brief one or two second spray will provide assurance that the smoke detector will respond under actual fire conditions. An alternative method is to blow smoke into the sensing chamber from a lighted cigarette, snuffed candle or burning string, but these methods can themselves be a fire hazard and are not recommended. A weekly check of smoke detectors is advisable using both the aerosol spray and the test button. If you are connected to a Central Monitoring Station (as described in Section 5.6) you should discuss testing with the company involved. At least once a year use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the openings in the detector cover. Refer to the instruction manual that comes with the detector for the proper maintenance procedure. | ||||||
| Heat-activated Alarms | |||||||
| In kitchens and garages, and in other areas where a smoke detector cannot be used, a heat-activated detector can be installed. These devices often come with a warning that they do not protect life against fire and smoke. In most fires, hazardous levels of smoke, heat and toxic gases can build up before a heat detector would initiate an alarm. Independent studies indicate that heat detectors should only be used when property protection alone is involved. Always use smoke detectors where possible. | |||||||
| Types of heat-activated alarms | Rate-of-rise heat detectors:
If the temperature sensed by this type of detector increases faster than a specified rate,
an alarm will be initiated. A typical rate may be 8.3 degrees Centigrade per minute. In
most such detectors, when the rate of rise element alone has been activated, the detector
is self-restoring. Fixed-temperature heat detectors: If the temperature at the detector rises to the detector’s rated temperature, an alarm is initiated. Often, when actuated by the fixed temperature element, the detector is non-restorable and must be replaced. A typical set temperature might be 57.2 degrees Centigrade. Combined rate-of-rise/fixed-temperature heat detectors: Some heat detectors combine both features, providing warning when the rate-of-rise and/or the absolute temperature is exceeded. |
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| Location of heat detectors | Heat detectors can provide a good secondary system for raising the overall level of protection in your home. They should be located only in areas where smoke detectors will be subjected to continuous false tripping, or in buildings not connected to the house. They should not be used in place of smoke detectors to protect the bedroom areas. | ||||||
| Mounting of heat detectors | As most heat-activated detectors are ac powered, each one should be wired to a junction box in a similar manner to a ceiling lamp. Wiring must comply with the requirements of the Canadian Electrical Code and your local codes. It is recommended that the detectors be wired together (two wires) on a separate circuit (one with no other lights or appliances connected to it). This circuit must be one that cannot be turned off by a switch or ground fault interrupter. For maximum coverage the detector should be mounted in the centre of the ceiling. It should be both CSA certified and ULC listed. | ||||||
| Testing and maintenance | Unlike smoke detectors, heat-activated detectors usually are not equipped with a test button. The requirements for testing and maintaining heat detectors are covered in ULC S536 Standard for Testing, Inspection and Maintenance of Existing Fire Alarm Systems. Because they are subject to reduced sensitivity over time, the manufacturer often recommends conducting a rate-of-rise test at least once a year. This test should be conducted by a qualified fire protection specialist. Tests cannot be performed on fixed temperature detectors. When testing combined rate-of-rise/fixed temperature detectors, the specialist must take care to prevent operating the non-restorable fixed temperature element. If this element is operated the entire unit must be replaced. | ||||||
| Fire Alarm Systems | |||||||
| Fire detection is often available as part of a complete burglar alarm system. The smoke/heat detectors may be wireless-fed or hardwired back to a control unit which can be used to activate a number of reporting devices. This type of alarm system is required to protect your property (and pets) while you are away from home, and is also able to summon the Fire Department for immediate action whether you are at home or away. It is, naturally, more expensive than a series of independent detectors, but it does provide many attractive features, and may be worth the additional cost, especially if you are planning to install a burglar alarm system anyway. According to the Hazardous Products Act, smoke and heat detectors for use in household fire alarm systems must meet the applicable requirements of the ULC if they are to be advertised, sold or imported into Canada. | |||||||
| Hardwired vs. wireless systems | The hardwired system involves running a wire, or pair of wires, from each of the detectors to the control panel which will usually be placed at some distance from the detectors. Wires may be run between the detectors, with a single pair of wires running to the control panel. As detectors are supposed to be mounted in the centre of the ceiling this could involve some "messy" wiring practices. The wireless detector incorporates a small radio transmitter which, when activated by the sensor, sends a signal directly to the control panel where it is received and made to activate the 24-hour fire alarm zone. This is the more common system as it is simple to install. The system transmits and receives signals that are coded by the owner so that interference from other similar signals is very unlikely. The wireless system may be "polled" periodically to test its operation. | ||||||
| Detectors | Many of the previously described types of smoke and heat detectors are available as part of an alarm system package. They may be hardwired or, more often, they will incorporate a radio transmitter that will send a signal back to the control panel to activate the alarm. The detector must be compatible with the control panel used. Detectors with a relay output (see Section 5.3.6) can be connected to a transmitter for feeding back to the system control panel, or can be wired directly to the panel. | ||||||
| Fire alarm interface | Some alarm systems have a smoke alarm interface which, when placed close to an existing detector, will "listen" for the sound of the alarm signal without the need for interconnecting wiring. It is battery operated and will, when it "hears" the siren of a ULC-approved smoke or heat detector, send a radio signal back to the control panel to activate the 24-hour fire alarm zone. This will allow selection of the best type of detector for your purpose and have it integrated into an alarm system. It will also allow existing self-contained detectors to be used with your alarm system. | ||||||
| Control panel | This panel will accept inputs (wireless and/or hardwired) from various intrusion, fire and panic sensors. It will process an alarm condition and provide outputs for operating indoor/outdoor sirens, a strobe light, a telephone dialler, a digital communicator, etc. It usually operates from your house wiring, but will have battery-backup in case the power should fail. In addition, the panel will have a facility to test the system and an input, from a keyswitch or digital keypad, to silence the alarm. It may be designed for wall-mounting, or it may be housed in an aesthetically pleasing cabinet for sitting on a shelf. | ||||||
| The Fire Zone | The fire alarm usually occupies one zone of a multi-zoned burglar alarm system, and is armed 24-hours a day regardless of whether the burglar alarm is armed or not. When any detector is triggered it either opens or closes a loop (hardwired system), or sends a radio signal (wireless operated system), to the control panel which, in turn, will operate one or more output/reporting devices. | ||||||
| Indoor siren | One or more indoor sirens can be installed in areas where they are most likely to waken sleepers, while the detectors may be on the other side of closed doors or at some distant location, such as the basement or workshop. | ||||||
| Outdoor siren | The loud outdoor horn will alert you if you are in the yard or at a neighbour’s. It will also alert the neighbours if you are away or are trapped by the fire and require immediate assistance. The siren may be simply a horn-shaped loudspeaker that converts an electrical tone generated by the control panel into a loud audible signal, or it may have a built-in tone generator that provides an audible signal when fed with a dc voltage from the control panel. The loudspeaker type will allow different tones produced by the control panel to indicate various alarm functions (e.g. a burglary may produce a warbling tone, while a fire may produce a steady tone). Be sure to inform your neighbours which type of tone applies to which emergency. | ||||||
| Lighting interface | Some alarm systems may be able to turn on one or more lights automatically when the alarm is activated. A few systems have an interface that will allow them to be connected to a home control system that will turn on lights, or appliances (such as TV, radio or tape recorder), in various parts of the house using signals transmitted over the house wiring. | ||||||
| Strobe light | Placed in some high and easily visible location outside your house, this flashing light will help the fire department, police or paramedics find your home quickly during an emergency. | ||||||
| Telephone dialler | A telephone dialler can be attached that, in the event of a fire (or burglary, or medical emergency), will automatically dial several pre-programmed telephone numbers in succession until an answer is received. It will then transmit a prerecorded message to indicate that an emergency exists at your home. | ||||||
| Digital communicator | If you require your system to register an alarm condition at a Central Monitoring Station (see Section 5.6), a Digital Communicator will need to be installed between the outputs of your alarm system and the telephone line. It will be triggered by an alarm condition (either fire, burglary, medical, panic, or other emergency) and will dial the monitoring station. A code will be sent, in a predetermined format, to indicate the type of emergency and your location. The proper emergency department will then be notified by the monitoring station. | ||||||
| Central Monitoring | |||||||
| A service is provided in many communities that will allow an alarm condition in your home to be detected at a Central Monitoring Station and the necessary emergency department summoned. In the case of a fire, this will ensure an automatic and immediate response by the Fire Department whether you are at home or away. | |||||||
| Digital communicator | This device may be built into
your alarm system, it may be purchased as a separate item, or it may be supplied by the
Central Monitoring Station. In any case, your alarm system must have outputs that are
compatible with the Digital Communicator you are going to use. There are usually separate
outputs for fire, burglary and panic. These special outputs are wired to the Digital
Communicator, which is connected to your normal telephone line via a Demarcation Jack. In
the event of an alarm, it will perform the following functions.
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| Demarcation jack | This is a circuit that has to be installed by your local telephone company in order for the Digital Communicator to be legally connected to the telephone line. It is an 8-position modular jack that is placed ahead of all equipment connected to your telephone line. With nothing plugged into the jack a shorting bar will connect all your telephones in the normal manner. When the Digital Communicator is plugged into the jack, your telephone line is passed through the communicator and will operate normally unless there is an alarm. When the communicator senses an alarm condition it disconnects all other telephone equipment, listens for dial tone then proceeds to dial the Central Monitoring Station. This will ensure that any incoming or outgoing telephone calls in progress at the time of an alarm will be dropped to give priority to the emergency. The telephone company will charge a flat fee (no monthly fee) of about $70 for installing the demarcation jack. | ||||||
| Installation | Some stations will only allow their services to be used if you have had them install your alarm system. Others will allow connection only after they have inspected your system. To ensure compatibility with their system, the monitoring station may insist that you use a Digital Communicator supplied by them. Central Monitoring Stations may be found in the Yellow Pages under "Fire Alarm Systems" or "Burglar Alarm Systems". Select one that is ULC approved or uses ULC approved equipment. There may be a one-time setup charge for checking your equipment and installing the Digital Communicator, then a monthly rate of around $25 for 24-hour monitoring. Some stations will come and check your system operation every few months as part of their service. You can specify who you wish to be notified in the event of a particular emergency. For instance, in addition to the Fire Department, police department or paramedics, you may wish to be called at work, or a neighbour, friend or doctor called. In the event of a medical emergency you will want a neighbour called who has a key to admit the paramedics into the house. All this information is recorded in a computer data base. | ||||||
| Operation | In the event of an alarm, the monitoring station receives the information sent over the telephone line by the Digital Communicator. The digital information is fed into a computer, where it is decoded to determine the location and type of emergency. The computer then searches its data base for who to call. All the information is then fed to a television monitor, where it is read by an operator who notifies the required persons in sequence. | ||||||
| Recommendation | |||||||
| The generalized features of available smoke detectors are given in the flow chart opposite. Both the ionization and photoelectric smoke detectors perform the same general function and, as it is impossible to tell whether a fire will be fast flaming or smoldering, the choice is usually arbitrary. Combination detectors offer the best protection, but may be hard to find. Heat detectors should only be used in areas where property alone is in danger and where smoke detectors will be continually false-tripping. The smoke detectors should be placed where fires are most likely to start and where they are most likely to protect the bedroom areas, while the audible alarms should be placed where the sirens are most likely to be heard and waken sleepers. | |||||||
| Selecting and planning the best system: | There are so many types of fire alarms on the market that you may have difficulty in selecting the system best suited to the layout of your home (and your pocket-book). The flow chart of Figure 5.9 on the previous page can be used as an aid in selecting the best system. Sections 5.3.10 through 5.3.12 summarize the placement of smoke detectors and alarms. Appendix B provides instructions (with an example) for planning the best type of system arrangement and the proper placement of detectors. It suggests that you draw a plan view of each floor of your house and note the best location of smoke, heat and gas detectors, and of alarms, based on the information in this Section. Will each detector (particularly those in distant locations, such as garage, basement, and workshop) be able to waken all sleepers - even with the bedroom doors closed? Will the detector be located in an area that will make it prone to false alarms? Decide whether you want to run in unswitched ac power (the answer will usually be no for existing homes). Decide on whether you plan to install a burglar alarm system which will include inputs for a fire alarm (a wireless type will be easier to install, but more expensive). Do you want your property protected while you are away from home - if so, decide whether you want a neighbour called (they may be out when a fire situation occurs) or a central monitoring station called (they will charge a monthly rate). Based on the complexity of the system chosen, you must decide whether to install it yourself, or pay to have it done. Shop around for estimates on the complete system - you may decide to reconsider some of the options. | ||||||
| Testing the initial installation | One member of the family should test the system one night when all other occupants are sleeping. He should press the test button on the detector farthest from the bedroom areas and ensure that all person are woken by the sound of the alarm. | ||||||
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| Please read Disclaimer | |||||||
